Give Your Kitten Time To Settle!

Just arrived home with a new kitten? Then your kitten has possibly just had its very first experience of a completely alien world. It is still a baby, in human terms, and has just left its mum and probably its brothers and sisters. Not surprisingly it may be unsure, unsettled and a little worried about what is going on.

Now it needs help, from you, to settle safely and comfortably into its new home.

Place your kitten in a quiet room, preferably the one that you and your pet will use most and that you find most comfortable and convenient. It should not be too hot or too cold. Your kitten could stay in this room for up to a week so choose the 'Settling Room' carefully. It should be a quiet haven for your kitten and completely free from the usual hustle and bustle of everyday life. If this is impractical advise all family members to be calm and quiet upon entering the room and exclude other pets initially.

It can take up to two weeks for a kitten to settle and it is not unusual for a kitten to pine in the first few days.

Use this time to allow the kitten to become accustomed to their new limited environment, to cuddle, play and begin to build a bond with you.

What should be in the settling room?

Be sure to have water, food, a litter tray and an allocated bed space ready before opening the carrying box. Show them to the kitten straight away. Consider where to place these items first…if a kitten gets used to using a litter tray in one area, with time, it will associate that space with a litter tray whether it is there or not!

Litter Tray
Keep the litter tray within eye shot of the kittens allocated bed space (not right next to it). Do not put food or water bowls near the litter tray either because the kitten may refuse to eat food it considers contaminated (even by smell). Keep the litter tray scrupulously clean as cats are fussy creatures and will not use a dirty litter tray. Make sure that the litter tray is big enough for the kitten to stand up and turn around - but not so large that the kitten cannot get in and out easily! Your litter tray should grow in size as your kitten does. If you intend to use a covered tray you may consider taping the door fully open for the first few weeks. Use a good quality lightweight cat litter and change the tray daily. Please do not use garden soil because it may harbour unwanted bacteria, viruses & diseases. In the first weeks, it may help to train if you use the same litter the kitten has become accustomed to and encourage the kitten to use the tray, by placing it on there, after every meal, upon waking or whenever it looks like it needs to go! Use hot water and detergents to clean the tray and avoid any substances hazardous to cats. Kittens may not use a tray that smells too strongly of detergents so rinse it thoroughly.

Food and Water
Young kittens (8-12 weeks) need to be fed five times daily. Lessen the feeding times as the kitten grows but give larger portions. At 3-6 months the kitten will require three meals. Use only good quality complete kitten foods, whether in tinned or dry formats. Tinned food can go off quickly so ensure that each portion is fresh. If feeding a good quality complete dried kitten food they can have unlimited access. Do not give your kitten milk because it can cause stomach upsets. Fresh drinking water should be available at all times. Clean and change water and food bowls daily. It is important to establish what foods your kitten has been used to and feed the same foods! Sudden changes of diet can cause stomach upsets, diarrhea or even organ failure. Any changes of diet must be slow. The kitten would need to be weaned onto a new diet over many days by slowly adding the new food into the kittens existing diet.

Toys
Time spent playing with your kittens is fun; rewarding and bond building….and kittens love to play!

Several short sessions, in one day, are better than one long one. Play for a small amount of time and often. Vary the toys you use every few days. Try to avoid any games that could teach your kitten to attack, bite or scratch human hands. After all, a kitten bite may not be too painful but an adult cat bite could cause serious injury. Use toys to play with your kitten - not your fingers! It is you who can teach your kitten what is acceptable behavior through play.

Toys do not have to be expensive. A nice clean cardboard box makes a lovely play area for a kitten; feathers are fun, as are cotton reels and paper bags. A scratching post is a great idea and the kitten will soon get used to using one (It does not necessarily have to be part of a large activity center). Catnip toys are good as they are scented with the herb Nepeta Cataria which many cats are attracted to. Just avoid toys with small parts that may be ingested or items that the kitten could get tangled or caught in. Put away any toys that the kitten could get tangled in at the end of every play session.

When Should Your Kitten Be Allowed Into Other Areas Of The House?
Once the kitten is completely settled you could open the door of the settling room allow them to investigate other areas of the house. Again, don't rush this. In the first instance it may be wise just to let the kitten explore the nearest rooms only - and introduce them to the whole house over time. Accompany the kitten at all times and choose quiet times when there are no noises or anything that may frighten them

Introducing Your Kitten To Other Cats

If the kitten is still settling in (Please see advice sheet 'Settling In') you should exclude other pets from the kitten altogether. It is probably enough initially for them just to learn about family members and their new internal environment.

As with humans there is no guarantee that pets will get on straight away. Introductions should be gradual and never forced.

The first meetings are extremely important because they establish hierarchy and, if they are forced or rushed, could set cat against cat. Or set behavior patterns that are extremely hard to remove later. So it is important to get it right from the start. It is easier to introduce a kitten to an older cat because they are less of a threat.

In the first instance each cat should be able to become accustomed to the others smell and presence without making physical contact. It may help the already resident cat to accept the new kitten if you transfer the smell of the new kitten around the house, before they are introduced, or allow each cat access the others room - without the other cat being present. You could also stroke the kitten and transfer the smell from your hands to furniture and between the two cats.

Once the two cats have become accustomed to each others smell and presence its time to let them view each other. Place the kitten in the pet carrier (with the door closed) and allow the older cat to enter the room. The older cat may want to approach the carrier straight away. If it does, reassure the older cat with treats, and stroking, to reinforce a positive experience. If there are any signs of aggression you could use noise diversion tactics or place the kitten out of direct eye contact with the older cat. If the older cat does not wish to approach the carrier do not force it but try again over the next few days. It is possible that the older cat may not want to investigate the newcomer at all but may just accept them into the household. The two cats should meet frequently in this way before they are allowed actual physical contact. To encourage acceptance, in the same room) you could feed the two cats at the same time (The older cat being fed in the room and the kitten being fed still in the closed pet carrier).

Eventually you will feel confident enough to let them actually meet. Choose times for these introductions when both cats are hungry (near feeding time) and use food as a distraction - But, do not starve your kitten! Allow the older cat into the room and place its food down (hopefully they will head for the food bowl). Then let the kitten out of the basket to eat their food (Important: The food bowls should not be close together!) If either of them run away, allow it. It may take some time for them even to eat in the same room. Repeat until some acceptance is achieved. Ensure that both cats are completely familiar with and have accepted each other before allowing free access to any other areas of the house together.

Introducing Your Kitten To Other Family Members

Do not allow children to rush into the room and grab the kitten!

You will know when your kitten is ready to be introduced to other family members. Some kittens will adapt to a new environment straight away others will take more time. You may feel your kitten is ready to be introduced to other family members after only a couple of days. However, if you have children, it may be too much to expect that they will not want to see the kitten straight away. So it is important to prime all family members beforehand.

The kitten should not be picked up straight away. Family members should enter the room quietly and calmly and sit a little distance away and wait for the kitten to approach them. The bonding should begin, once the kitten has approached, with stroking, then some play, and eventually to being held. Allow only one family member at a time initially and manage the situation carefully.

Kitten Grooming and General Care

Grooming
Groom your kitten daily. It will help develop a bond between you and will help keep the skin and coat in good condition. Use an appropriate comb (available form most pet shops) and teach the kitten, from the beginning, that it is a positive experience.

It is not necessary to bath cats. However, some log haired breeds need particular grooming and you should seek advice from the breeder about any specific grooming routines.

If you do have to bath your kitten use a recommended kitten shampoo and avoid getting water in the kittens mouth. Cats and kittens do not have a coughing mechanism like us and water can find its way to the lungs. Cats also have sensitive skin so rinse thoroughly.

Worming and Fleas
Kittens can be treated for roundworms at 4-6 weeks of age. Then every 2-3 weeks until 4 months of age. Thereafter they can be treated for both roundworms and tapeworms every 3-6 months (If you have an outdoor cat that does a lot of mouse hunting it may need to be wormed much more often). Only ever use kitten (feline) treatments recommended by your vet and follow the dosing instructions implicitly. Giving your kitten treatments recommended for dogs, or household flea control, could be fatal!

It is always best to use a flea treatment for kittens that is recommended by your vet. The most common treatments are either spray or 'dab on.' Again follow usage instructions implicitly. If you know your kitten already has fleas you may need to treat your house for flea eggs as well as the kitten.

Substances & Plants Poisonous to Cats and Kittens and General Dangers In The Household

Surprisingly the most common form of cat poisoning is carried out by man. Giving your cat or kitten flea products designed for dogs or for household flea control is extremely dangerous indeed. Always buy the appropriate flea control product for your kitten and follow the instructions implicitly. Never combine flea treatments (ie use two flea treatments together).

Dispose all household waste properly. Do not leave garden refuse or household substances lying around. Be aware of where your cat/kitten is when cooking, cover any garden ponds and stow electrical wires safely out of harms way. Never medicate your cat with human products!

Certain common household products are poisonous to cats including:

• All products that would be considered poisonous to humans!
• Antifreeze (along with many other vehicle substances)
• Antiseptics
• Chocolate
• Dandruff shampoo (All human medicated shampoos) *Do not bathe your cat with human medicated shampoos.
• Flea products designed for dogs or household flea control
• Furniture polish
• Human pain relievers (all types aspirin, ibuprofen etc)
• Mothballs
• Perfumes
• Phenols (disinfectant type products that turn water milky - older name: carbolic acid) *Do not use phenols to clean with.
• Shoe polish
• Slug, ant and rat poisons (Cats can also be poisoned by eating rodents that have ingested poisons).

Common plants that are poisonous to cats include:

• Ivy
• Aloe Vera
• Amaryllis
• Avocado
• Azalea
• Buttercup
• Caster Oil
• Chrysanthemum
• Clematis
• Croton
• Cyclamen
• Daffodil bulbs
• Daphne
• Delphinium
• Dracaena Palm
• Dumb Cane
• Elderberry
• Euonymus
• Ferns (Many types)
• Geranium
• Holly
• Honeysuckle
• Hyacinth
• Hydrangea
• Iris
• Ivy (Many types)
• Kalanchoe
• Larkspur
• Laurel
• Lily (Many types)
• Marigold
• Mistletoe
• Mock Orange
• Narcissus
• Onion
• Peach
• Peony
• Periwinkle
• Philodendron
• Pimpernel
• Poinsettias
• Poppy
• Potato
• Primrose
• Privet
• Rhododendron
• Rhubarb
• Rubber Plant
• Scotch Broom
• Snowdrops
• Sweetpea
• Tobacco
• Tomato Plant
• Tulip
• Virginia Creeper
• Wisteria
• Yucca

Tips For Travelling With Your New Kitten

Some Good Travelling Tips..

• Ensure that your kitten is healthy before travelling.
• Transport your kitten in an appropriate, ventilated, container.
• Do not place your kitten in the foot well or boot of a vehicle.
• Monitor you kitten during the journey.
• Ensure that your kitten is properly secured - use a seat belt or similar to secure the pet carrier.
• Ensure your vehicle is well ventilated and never leave your kitten in a hot car. Should it turn unduly cold, and you need internal heating for yourself, use common sense and do not place your kitten close to vents. Dehydration can occur quickly in kittens!
• If you are making a longer journey ensure that your kitten has access to water and food. *However, it is not unusual for a pet to refuse water and food whilst in transit.
• If necessary make stops to let them drink and use a litter tray. 
   

After The Journey…
Pets can go off their food for a day or two after a stressful journey, particularly if they have travelled a long distance or are moving to a new home, so it is important to ensure that they are getting adequate fluids - and are being re-hydrated. If you are at all concerned that your kitten may be dehydrated, or is not drinking, seek medical advice as soon as possible.

Travelling With Your Cat - Tips To help Prevent Feline Dehydration Whilst In Transit (Prevention, Signs & Symptoms)

Both cats and dogs could become ill, collapse and even die if left, or transited, in an overly heated vehicle. This applies to both internal and external heat sources and/or, if transited in an inappropriate container. Dehydration can occur quickly and with tragic consequences.

What Can You Do To Prevent Dehydration Whilst Travelling?

• Ensure that your pet is healthy before travelling.
• Transport your pet in an appropriate, ventilated, container.
• Do not place your pet in the foot well or boot of a vehicle.
• Monitor you pet during the journey.
• Ensure your vehicle is well ventilated and never leave your pet in a hot car. Should it turn unduly cold, and you need internal heating for yourself, use common sense and do not place your pet close to vents.
• If you are making a longer journey ensure that your pet has access to water and food. *However, it is not unusual for a pet to refuse water and food whilst in transit.
• If necessary make stops to let them drink and use a litter tray. 

What Are The Signs & Symptoms Of Being Too Hot Or Suffering Dehydration?

• Panting Increased water consumption.
• Being uncomfortable and unable to settle initially.
• Going very quiet and lethargic.
• Having a dry mouth. Sunken eyes.
• Having poor skin elasticity (where the skin is gently pinched to see how quickly it falls back into place).
• Being unable to breathe as the air passages dry out.
• Heart rate increase.
• Deterioration in blood circulation.
• Convulsions and ultimately collapse.

What Could You Do If Your Pet Does Become To Hot Or Dehydrated?

• Try to encourage your pet to drink.
• Move your pet to a cool area. If you have a cooling fan, or any cooling device, encourage your pet to sit near it.
• Apply cool fluid to the gums.
• Bring down the temperature by wrapping the pet in cold wet towels.
• If your pet exhibits advanced signs of dehydration seek professional advice immediately.

After The Journey…
Pets can go off their food for a day or two after a stressful journey, particularly if they have travelled a long distance or are moving to a new home, so it is important to ensure that they are getting adequate fluids - and are being re-hydrated. Again, if you are at all concerned seek medical advice as soon as possible.

What Items Should I Purchase Before Collecting My Kitten?

It is not necessary to spend vast amounts of money on your kitten. However, there are a few essential items that you will need prior to collection.
 

• Pet Carrier: This should be secure, ventilated and the correct size for your kitten. It should not be so large that your kitten is thrown about. But, large enough so that your kitten can stand up, turn around, stretch its legs and move position.
• Water & Food Bowls: These should be designed for cats and be a suitable size for your kitten. Your kitten should not have to climb into the bowls to access food or water.
• Kitten Food: It is important to establish what foods your kitten has been used to and feed the same foods! Sudden changes of diet can cause stomach upsets, diarrhoea or even organ failure. All pets should be slowly weaned onto new diets. Often breeders will give you a food sample. If not, ask. Only ever feed quality kitten foods - Preferably 'complete' kitten diets in dried or wet formats.
• Litter Tray & Litter: The tray should big enough for the kitten to stand up and turn around - but not so large that the kitten cannot get in and out easily! The litter tray should grow in size as your kitten does. If it is too small an 'accident' could occur or the kitten will refuse to use it. It may help to train the kitten to use the tray of you obtain the same litter the kitten has become accustomed to.
• Bed & Bedding: Fleecy pet blankets are good with a suitable kitten bed.
• Some Kitten Toys: Toys do not have to be expensive. A nice clean cardboard box makes a lovely play area for a kitten; feathers are fun, as are cotton reels and paper bags. A scratching post is a great idea and the kitten will soon get used to using one (It does not necessarily have to be part of a large activity centre). Catnip toys are good as they are scented with the herb Nepeta Cataria which many cats are attracted to. Just avoid toys with small parts that may be ingested or items that the kitten could get tangled or caught in.
• Grooming: A suitable kitten comb.
• Window Mesh Screens: If you live in a high building, and like to have your windows open, fit mesh screens to stop the kitten falling out.
• Medications: We recommend that your kitten is vet health checked as soon as possible (and certainly within the first few days). Ask you vet for advice about administering medications and to recommend suitable flea & worming treatments. Do not self medicate your kitten until it has been vet checked.
• Extra Items: If you do not have a settling in room (Please see 'Settling In' advice sheet for more information) you may want to consider a kitten pen or large pet crate for safe play/sleeping areas.

What Preparations Should Be Made To The House Before Collecting The Kitten?

Look For Potential Hazards!

Go over your house to make sure all windows, fireplaces, cupboards, washing machines or any kitten sized 'bolt holes' are sealed. Leave your toilet seats down and empty the bath - kittens are inquisitive and have been known to drown in toilets and baths! Better still keep the bathroom door shut at all times. If you are likely to have a fire on anywhere in the household be sure that it has a guard (kittens will brush against fires!). A frightened kitten may try to escape and hide in very obscure places. If you live in a high building, or like to have your windows open, fit mesh screens to stop the kitten falling out.

Remove or stow away any items that may be a potential hazard. An obvious, but often overlooked hazard, is working electrical wires for televisions, computers etc.

If you have other household pets make sure they are all up to date on vaccinations, worming and have been treated for fleas. Ideally, you should not let your kitten meet other household pets until it has completed its first course of vaccinations and has settled in.

Note: These sheets have been written for guidance only. They have not been written by a veterinarian and we cannot guarantee the accuracy of any information given. If you are concerned at all always seek professional medical advice.